Source: The Guardian
The European Union reported a record number of potential olive oil fraud and mislabeling cases in the first quarter of 2024, driven by inflationary pressures and a growing hidden market for the kitchen staple.
The cost of olive oil has more than doubled since 2018 due to extreme weather from the climate crisis and other factors. This price spike has led to an increase in “cross-border EU notifications,” which include cases of mislabeling, potential fraud, and safety issues involving contaminated oils.
Germany reported a case from Israel where ''lampante oil,'' unfit for human consumption without further refining, was marketed as ''extra virgin olive oil''.
In the first quarter of 2018, only 15 cases were recorded by the EU. This number surged to 50 in the first three months of this year, a more than threefold increase, according to data obtained by The Guardian through freedom of information laws.
These figures represent only the cases detected and reported by member states to the EU Directorate General for Health. Domestic cases are not included, suggesting the actual scale of fraud is likely much higher.
Reports included oils contaminated with unauthorized substances like pesticides and mineral oils, and in one instance, glass fragments. Additionally, there were numerous cases of extra virgin olive oil adulterated with lower quality oils, virgin olive oil falsely labeled as extra virgin and misleading origin labeling.
In February, Germany reported a case from Israel where "lampante oil," unfit for human consumption without further refining, was marketed as "extra virgin olive oil." In March, Germany flagged misleading labeling of olive oil from Syria, routed through the Netherlands.
Of the 182 olive oil fraud and non-compliance notifications sent to the EU since the start of 2023, Italy accounted for 54, Spain for 41, and Greece for 39.
In response to these issues, the EU introduced new rules in July 2022 for conformity checks on marketing standards for olive oil and methods for analyzing it. A European Commission spokesperson emphasized that the higher number of notifications reflects improved vigilance and cooperation among member states, not an increased risk to consumers. The Commission maintains zero tolerance for fraud and organizes annual workshops to ensure compliance and information exchange.
Chris Elliott, a professor of food safety at Queen’s University Belfast, noted that while ingesting contaminated olive oil could have serious consequences, such products are unlikely to appear on major supermarket shelves. Smaller businesses and food services are more vulnerable to fraud due to less monitoring.
Climate change has severely impacted olive oil production, particularly in Spain, which produced over half the world’s olive oil in 2018-19. Droughts and heatwaves have reduced crop yields, driving global production down 27% since 2018-19. The resulting price increase has made olive oil an attractive target for fraudsters.
Elliott highlighted that climate-driven inflation often leads to increased fraud: "Whenever we see fluctuations in commodity prices, it's a clear sign of increased fraud as it provides an opportunity for people to cheat."
Italian authorities have been active in combating olive oil fraud. Last year, the Italian Central Inspectorate of Quality Protection and Fraud Prevention of Agrifood Products (ICQRF) seized 380 tonnes of oil products worth over €2 million and reported 17 individuals for serious violations. In November, Italian authorities seized 550,000 kg of oils falsely declared as olive oil, valued at approximately €250,000.
