Shemaine Bushnell Kyriakides
If you’re flying into Cyprus today and notice a thick cloud hovering over the island, don’t worry—it’s not fog, and no, the fields aren’t on fire. It’s just Tsiknopempti, the one day a year when the entire country turns into a giant, open-air BBQ pit.
From early morning, Cypriots have been firing up their foukou (charcoal grills), skewering endless rows of souvlaki and souvla, and contributing generously to the great meat-scented haze that blankets the island. The smell of sizzling pork has officially replaced oxygen, and anyone stepping outside today is guaranteed to come back indoors smelling like a walking, talking grill.
According to popular urban legend, on Tsiknopempti, planes approaching Larnaca and Paphos airports struggle with visibility due to the sheer volume of BBQ smoke rising from gardens, streets, office courtyards, and even gas station parking lots. While air traffic control remains suspiciously quiet on the matter, one thing is clear—anyone landing in Cyprus today is greeted with the unmistakable welcome sign of grilled meat wafting through the air.
Meanwhile, supermarkets have reported critical souvlaki shortages as last-minute shoppers scramble to get their hands on whatever meat is left. The most unprepared have been seen bargaining over the last remaining skewers, questioning whether halloumi counts as a legitimate backup plan.
Theoretically, Tsiknopempti marks the last major meat feast before Lent, a time when those observing Orthodox traditions cut back on meat, dairy, and all things delicious. In reality? Most Cypriots see it as just another excuse to eat excessive amounts of grilled meat, because let’s be honest—how many are truly giving up souvla for 40 days?
From bustling tavernas to makeshift roadside BBQ setups, the party atmosphere is undeniable. Co-workers abandon their desks to grill in the office parking lot, villages turn into meat-scented festival zones, and somewhere, an unlucky uncle is undoubtedly setting off the fire alarm with an overenthusiastic charcoal pile.
At the end of the day, Tsiknopempti isn’t just about eating—it’s about the ritual of grilling, the camaraderie, and the joy of filling the air (and your lungs) with delicious smoke. So whether you’re fanning the flames, flipping skewers, or just standing around pretending to help, today is a day for celebration.
And if you’re flying in and can see the smoke from 30,000 feet up? Welcome to Cyprus—grab a plate.
