Queens, Kings, and Cyprus. Checkmate!

The night of March 28 was windy, cloudy, and even a little rainy, the kind that makes you clutch your coat and hope your hair survives the evening. Yet there I was at the Cap St Georges Hotel & Resort in Peyia, Paphos, for the opening ceremony of the FIDE Candidates Tournament, the first time this elite chess event has ever landed in Cyprus. And honestly, it was hard to keep my eyes on the players. The sea, the cliffs, and the dramatic skies kept stealing my attention. But focus I had to, because this tournament isn’t just any competition. The winner? They earn the right to challenge reigning World Champion GM Gukesh D for the crown.

FIDE, the International Chess Federation, had gathered sixteen of the world’s top players, eight men and eight women, from around the globe. Among them were two Americans: Hikaru Nakamura and Fabiano Caruana, ranked second and third in the world, respectively. Russian candidates competed under the neutral FIDE flag, a subtle reminder that chess sometimes dances with global politics.

Choosing Cyprus added a splash of Mediterranean charm to what is usually a very serious, closed-off affair. Previous tournaments took place in Toronto, Madrid, and Yekaterinburg during the lockdown. But not everyone embraced the sunny change: Indian GM Humpy Koneru withdrew from the women’s event, citing safety concerns over the ongoing war in Iran, and was replaced by GM Anna Muzychuk.

The evening itself felt more like a celebration than a ceremony. Cyprus government officials were on hand, including Deputy Minister of Tourism Costas Koumis and DIKO President Nicolas Papadopoulos. Kriton Tornaritis, President of the Cyprus Chess Federation, welcomed both players and audience. Front and center was Timur Turlov, CEO of Limassol-based Freedom24, who played a major role in bringing FIDE to Cyprus. Turlov, a lifelong chess enthusiast, has also championed the Cyprus Chess Academy, creating a home where players of all ages can learn and compete.

Ambassadors and representatives from the U.S., Qatar, China, Kazakhstan, India, and more cheered on their players, lending the event an unmistakable international buzz. And the kids, young and old alike, were over the moon, getting to meet their chess heroes up close, shake hands, and grab autographs. Once the formal introductions wrapped, the night didn’t end. A lavish buffet dinner gave way to a dance party at the resort’s private club. I couldn’t help but feel like I’d been teleported back to the ’90s at the Roxbury on Sunset, yes, the kind of nostalgia only people who remember floppy disks can truly appreciate. Music, mingling, and a little Mediterranean magic made it the perfect kickoff.

The next morning, March 29, brought a mix of sunshine, clouds, and the ever-present Paphos wind, ideal for a walk along the St. Georges coastal path. I’ve been in Cyprus for over 20 years, and though I used to roam the Akamas peninsula, I never imagined this area could be developed so elegantly while still feeling wild and authentic. Walking with my friend from California, the waves crashing against the cliffs reminded us of Zuma Beach and Half Moon Bay back home. White caves dotted the shore, and though we didn’t see seals, a trio of hares sprinted past so fast I couldn’t even capture them on camera. Nature here is alive in a way that makes you pause.

Meanwhile, the chess itself is thrilling. Matches kicked off at 3 p.m. on Sunday, March 29, with pairings that included Javokhir Sindarov (UZB) vs. Andrey Esipenko (RUS), Matthias Bluebaum (GER) vs. Wei Yi (CHN), R. Praggnanandhaa (IND) vs. Anish Giri (NED), and Caruana vs. Nakamura among the men. The women’s event is equally fierce, featuring top players from India, Kazakhstan, China, and Ukraine battling for a chance to challenge the world champion.

This tournament is about more than chess; it puts Cyprus on the map for hosting world-class events that combine prestige, sport, and style. Cap St. George CEO George Ioannou and Executive Director Marina Stylianides ensured the venue met the highest standards. Between the setting, the players, and the international buzz, it’s clear that Cyprus can now host competitions that rival anywhere else in the world. Even Monaco, in my humble opinion!

By the end of the weekend, with the Mediterranean waves crashing, wind whipping around us, and sun peeking through clouds, it struck me how rare it is to witness such a mix of sport, culture, and natural beauty in one place. Whether you’re a chess fanatic, a casual visitor, or just someone who loves the moment, this event felt like a checkmate in its own right.